Sewing Techniques
Drafting a Skirt Block
Skirts are one of the easiest things to make without a store-bought pattern, so why not jump in and give it a try? We’ve the how-to tips by Francesca Denhartog and Carole Ann Camp from Sew What Skirts.
Who needs a pattern?
The only measurements you need are:
- your waist
- your hips at the widest point
- the length from your waist to your hips
- the length you want the skirt to be
We usually refer to the top of the skirt as the waistline, but in today’s fashion, the top of the skirt can sit anywhere from your actual waistline to your hipline. If you like your skirts to ride below the waist, measure that spot for your waist measurement. Fill in the chart (below) and refer to it whenever you make a skirt.
Real women have curves
Most skirts have a slightly curved edge at the waist and the hemline. This is because you too have curves, either a little bit or a lot. When figuring out how much curve to add to the waistline of your skirt, the rule of thumb is to measure up from the waist point by 1.3 – 2.5 cm (1/2 – 1”) then measure out to the desired width of the skirt. This gives you a guide for drawing that curve.
After drawing a curve for a waistline or hemline, check the corners to make sure they are at a 90 degree angle (roughly). Just lay a ruler in each corner and adjust your chalk lines as needed.
Ease into it
How loosely or tightly you like your skirts to fit is also up to you. Generally you want to add ‘ease’ (a little extra room) so the skirt isn’t totally skintight. Try adding from 2.5 – 5 cm (1 – 2”) to your waist measurement and 5 – 10 cm (2 – 4”) to your hip measurements.
After you have made your first skirt, and before you put in the zip or elastic, try the skirt on. If it’s bigger than you like, take in the side seams. If it is smaller than you like, change the seam allowance to 6 mm (1/4”). Make changes on your paper pattern so it will be just the way you like it next time.
When you find what works for you and your body type stick with it.
Do what works
By the way, you might be able to make a pattern from your favourite skirt, if it doesn’t have a lot of gathers, darts or pleats. The best candidate is a straight skirt that fits you well in the waist and hips.
Trace the skirt onto newspaper or wrapping paper, then add 13 mm (1/2”) for seam allowances. Use this pattern as a template or for basic measurements for the skirts you make.
The directions below apply to most skirts (exceptions are circular, square and some tiered skirts). The first step in each case is to prepare the fabric, fold it in half lengthwise, and lay it on a cutting surface. Or, to make a pattern, apply the steps to a large piece of paper instead.
HANDY HINT: Take your time and think things through before you cut the fabric. If you are unsure about the measurements, it’s better to cut it larger than you think you need and make adjustments later. If you are very curvy, you will need darts for shaping.
Your vital statistics
The A-D measurements below will be used to draft the skirts. Waistline seam allowances vary depending on the kind of waistline you want. Add 5 cm (2”) for an elastic waistline; add 13 mm (1/2”) for a fitted waistline.
Waist ...... + 5 cm SA + 2.5 – 5 cm ease = …… divided by 4* = A ….. cm
Hips …… + 5 cm SA + 5 – 10 cm ease = …… divided by 4* = B …… cm
Waist to hips …… + …… SA at waist = C …… cm
Desired length …… + 2.5 cm hem + …… SA at waist = D ….. cm
Notes:
SA refers to seam allowance, 13 mm (1/2”) for each seam
Ease provides a little extra breathing room
*We divide by 4 because you cut the front and back separately (each is half the skirt) from a folded fabric (which divides it in half again).
STRAIGHT SKIRT, FITTED WAIST
Draw directly on the fabric or on a large sheet of paper (for instance the back of wrapping paper) to make a pattern.
Along the fold
1. Near the top, mark a spot for the waistline
2. Mark 1.3 – 2.5 cm (1/2 – 1”) above the first mark (to plot the waistline curve)
3. Mark the distance from the waist to hip (measurement C)
4. Mark the desired length (measurement D)
For the Side Seam
5. From mark 2, place a ruler perpendicular to the fold and mark the waist width (measurement A)
6. From mark 3, place a ruler perpendicular to the fold and mark the hip width (measurement B).
Connect the dots
1. Waist: draw a curved line from 1 to 5.
2. Hemline: Place a ruler perpendicular to the fold at 4 and draw a line that extends to where the seamline will be. This is an approximation; you can adjust it later.
3. Side seam: draw a straight line from 5to6.
4. Side seam: draw a line parallel to the fold and selvedge from 6 to approx hemline.
Finishing up
1. Draw a curved line to smooth out the corner at mark 6.
2. Use a yardstick to check that the distance from the waist to the hemline is consistent.
Cut it out
For a side zip: cut two identical pieces for front and back.
For a back zip: position the first piece (or pattern) 13 mm (1/2”) from the fold line or selvages to allow for seam allowance in the back. Cut two back halves.
A-LINE SKIRT, FITTED WAIST
Draw directly on the fabric or on a large sheet of paper to make a pattern. Make the same six mars as for the Straight Skirt, but connect them as follows:
Connect the dots
1. Waist: draw a curved line from 1 to 5.
2.Side Seam: draw a straight line from 5 through to 6. Continue to about where the hem will be.
3. Hemline: with a yardstick, mark your D measurement from the waistline curve at several points. Connect the points to draw a curve for the hemline.
Cut it out
For a side zip: cut two identical pieces for front and back
For a back zip: position the first piece (or pattern) 13 mm (1/2”) from the fold line or selvages to allow for seam allowance in the back. Cut two halves for the back.
A-LINE SKIRT, ELASTIC WAIST
Because you pull the skirt over your hips, the waistline is based on your hips (B) instead of your waist (A). The D measurement is the desired length plus 2.5 cm (1”) hem and 5 cm (2”) waistline casing.
Cut two identical pieces for front and back.
Along the fold
1. Near the top, mark a spot for the waistline
2. Mark 1.3 – 2.5 cm (1/2 – 1”) above the first mark (to plot the waistline curve).
3. Mark the desired length: the D measurement is the desired length plus 2.5 cm (1”) for hem and 5 cm (2”) for the elastic waist.
For the side seam
4. From mark 2, place a ruler perpendicular to the fold and mark the hip width (measurement B).
Connect the dots
1. Waist: draw a curved line from 1 to 4.
2. Side seam: draw a straight line from 4, at an angle to the fold, to where it will meet the hemline. The amount of angle depends on your taste and the width of the fabric.
3. Hemline: With a yardstick, mark your D measurement from the waistline curve at several points, then connect the points.
HANDY HINT: Think ahead - before you cut, make sure you have enough fabric for both front and back piece. Depending on the skirt style, and your size, you may need only one length of fabric, or you may need two).
Further information
The information for this article is from Sew What, Skirts by Francesca Denhartog and Carole Ann camp. Published by David and Charles, this is an inspiring book for those who want to learn to create their own original skirts. It shows how to draft a basic block for both straight and A-line skirts, and how to adapt them to create 16 variations to suit all occasions. The variations include yokes, pleats, overlays, and trims, plus instructions to modify the designs for wrap-over, flared and tiered styles. There are handy tips throughout for perfecting the fit and ensuring a professional finish, along with ideas for alternative versions. Available from David & Charles, tel: 0870 990 8222, Sew What! Skirts is priced £12.99 (ISBN 0715326953).
