Sewing Techniques

Rolled Rosettes

Oh, what a rolled hem can do! That’s all you need to make the luscious rosettes on this evening clutch bag. Texturised nylon thread creates a well-defined edge finish on the bias cut fabric strips.

Having cut the strips, just gather and roll them to make the blossoms. Choose a satiny fabric with lots of sheen and colour to make the most of the sculpture shape.

Machine and feet

3-, 4-, or 5 thread overlocker with differential feed and rolled hem capability
Rolled hem foot or plate (if needed for your overlocker)

Materials and tools

4.5 cm x 84 cm bias strip of fabric for one rosette (1 ¾” x 33”)
One spool of texturised nylon thread to match rosette fabric
Two spools of all-purpose thread to match texturised nylon thread
Ruler, fabric marker, scissors and hand sewing needle

To make

1. Cut a 4 x 84 cm bias strip for each rosette.

2. Set the overlocker for a narrow, three-thread rolled hem, referring to the machine’s manual. Put texturised nylon thread in the upper looper and all-purpose thread in the needle and lower looper. Test the setting on a scrap of fabric.

HANDY HINT: A rolled hem is a very fine binding stitch that folds under a narrow margin of fabric as its sewn. You might need a rolled hem foot or a special needle plate, check the manual. You can set the stitch to create an open pattern, or very tight satin-like pattern. You can add decorative thread or wire or fishing line to stiffen the edge. Because there are so many options, be sure to test and experiment before you begin your project.

3. Sew a rolled hem on one long edge of the bias strip. Taper the strip at one end.

4. Reset the overlocker for a gathered overedge stitch (three-thread overlock stitch with differential feed), referring to the machine’s manual. Adjust the different feed control to achieve the tightest gathering possible. Test the gathering technique on a scrap of fabric.

HANDY HINT: To gather the edge, adjust the differential feed control to its highest setting (the lowest setting will do the opposite and stretch the fabric). Experiment with fabric scraps and adjust the setting. The fabric weight will affect how much the fabric will gather, to increase fullness of the ruffle, increase the tension on the needle thread or try a longer stitch.

5. Gather the unhemmed long edge of the bias strip.

6. To form the rosette, follow the sequence shown in the photos below. Roll up the bias strip, beginning at the tapered end. Sew the gathered edges together by had as you roll. Turn the rosette right side up from time to time to see that it flares prettily.

7. When you’ve finished rolling the rosette, make a few stitches across the bottom to secure it.

8. Hand-stitch the rosette to your project. Stitch through the bottom of the rosette in several places to make sure it sits snugly and securely.

HANDY HINT: When making more than one rosette, complete each step on each strip before going on to the next step.

Make one or more rosettes of any size you like. Tiny ones are sweet and large ones are dramatic.

More rosettes!

What’s on your calendar? A prom, a wedding, a holiday celebration? One or more well placed rosettes dress up clothes or accessories for any occasion. Choose a dressy fabric, something with sheen or a little metallic glimmer.

Looking for something a little more casual? Try a fun cotton print, lightweight denim or even thin, colourful felt!

Sheer fabrics make a delicate bloom, like the one shown here. You can finish it with a matching hem or a contrasting hem to emphasize the shapes.

If you want to create a more intricate rosette, place two different-coloured strips back to back. Then hem roll and stitch them as one.

Further information

This project has been reproduced from Quick and Easy Sewing with a Serger by Becky Hanson with kind permission of Creative Publishing International. Part of a series of spiral bound books, it includes 15 fun projects that will let you sample what an overlocker can do. Whether you are new to overlocking, or already know a thing or two, this easy to use title will add great techniques to your sewing bag of tricks! ISBN: 978-1-58923-350-8, the UK price is £14.99 and the book is available from good book shops nationally or directly from Amazon at www.amazon.co.uk.