Sewing Techniques

Luxurious Lingerie - part 2

Lorna Knight shares her tips for achieving pretty decorative stitching – often called heirloom stitching, which can be used to enhance fabric and make a simple piece of lingerie even more special. Use it on bras, negligee, French knickers and slips or even on a pretty summer skirt. (See how to make this Heirloom Style Petticoat on the sewing techniques page).





DECORATIVE STITCHES

Today’s modern sewing machines have a plethora of stitches even the busiest of sewers would find difficult to include in their projects. Take time to try them out with different threads and needles to see the effects that can be created.  The illustrations in the sewing machine manuals do not always do them justice and even the simplest stitch can be impressive in the right choice of threads.

• To get the best result from these stitches use the recommended presser foot and place a stabiliser behind the work to support the fabric.
• Try out each stitch in the pre-programmed setting then adjust this if possible to alter the length and width. Depending on how and where the stitch is to be used this may improve the look of the stitch.

HANDY HINTS: There are numerous stabilisers available today ranging from tear away construction to those which need to be cut away after stitching. Wash away stabilisers also vary in their make up and some will suit some projects better than others. Both Gutermann and Madeira has a superb collection of stabilisers to suit all sewing needs (available from haberdashery stockists nationally).

THREADS

General sewing thread, embroidery threads and metallic threads can all be used to give colour, texture and sheen to stitching. Use them with the correct needle to achieve the best results.  For example, many metallic threads will shred unless a Metallica needle is used. This has a particularly large eye as does an embroidery needle or Lana needle designed for use with wool thread.

Using Thicker Thread 
A trick with thicker embroidery threads like Madeira’s new Decora no.6 or Cotona no.4 is to wind them on to the bobbin as they are too thick to be threaded through a needle. With suitable standard thread in the needle the fabric is fed upside down under the presser foot and needle to produce a more dominant stitch on the surface of the fabric.

HANDY HINT: Use a separate bobbin holder for this or the bobbin tension may need to be adjusted. Alternatively, thread in bobbin WITHOUT going through bobbin tension (just drop bobbin in and leave thread as it lays, turn balance wheel by hand so the top thread picks up bobbin thread).

NEEDLES

Twin needles and wing needles create lovely effects on fabric when used with the right choice of stitch, fabric and threads. See the information on the main site for more advice.

Twin Needle

These vary in the width between the needles but both needles are fitted onto one shaft.

* Twin needles are ideal for creating narrow pin tucks simply by stitching down in straight lines.

* Use different colour threads to create interesting effects with pre-programmed stitches.

* Stitch two perfectly parallel rows of top stitching using a twin needle and matching or contrasting thread.

Wing Needle

The wing needle has side wings which push the threads of the fabric apart to leave holes, but it must return to the same position more than once to hold each hole open.

* A wing needle creates stitches and holes in the fabric similar to traditional pulled fabric work popular on table linen and bedding.

* It works well on a 100% natural fabric like cotton or linen when used with cotton thread and a suitable stitch.

* Try out some appropriate pre-programmed stitches and use spray starch to stiffen the fabric or a stabiliser under the work to give the best results.

SCALLOPED EDGES

Use a scalloped stitch to edge a piece of work. Use a suitable stabiliser under the fabric to support it and sew a scallop stitch 15 mm (5/8”) from the edge. Trim carefully up to the stitches using sharp embroidery scissors then tear or wash the rest of the stabiliser away.

This looks lovely on the cuffs or collars of ladies blouses and is a light finish on the hems of babies clothing.

 
TUCKS

Tucks make an attractive detail on lightweight fabrics by adding texture.  They can be used on nightdresses, skirts, shirts and blouses in varying widths from pin tucks to wider tucks and placed either horizontally or vertically. (Generally horizontal tucks are folded downwards and vertical tucks fold away from the centre).

Pin tucks can be made by folding the fabric and stitching close to the fold with an edge foot and needle in far right position OR, on a single layer of material with a twin needle.

When making tucks it is important to remember accuracy. Measure the size of each tuck and the space between it and the next one with great care. Make sure the stitching is as straight as possible too.

HANDY HINT: Use a pin tuck foot to make neat, regular, parallel pin tucks. For added definition, make corded pin tucks by laying a thin cord under the pin tuck foot, in the groove on the underside which is held in place as the tuck is stitched with a twin-needle.

Use the ideas above to add detail to summer skirts, tops and blouses, children’s wear, lingerie and projects around the home.

Further information

Lorna runs workshops in Staffordshire, just off the M6 at junction 15. These include Lingerie and Bra making courses as well as Heirloom techniques and other subjects. Please call her for further details on tel: 01538 266002 or sew-well@ntlworld.com.

For stockists of the Madeira Cotona threads and stabilisers used in the project contact tel: 0118 973 5196 or email: info@thekingdoms.co.uk.

This technique has been written for ISEW by Lorna Knight. Lorna teaches all kinds of dressmaking workshops including lingerie and courses on overlockers. For further information contact Lorna at: sew-well@ntlworld.com or tel: 01538 266002.