Sewing Techniques
Luxurious 
Lingerie - part 1
Underwear - bras, briefs and tights convey an idea of practicality while the word lingerie conjures up more of a picture of delicate, feminine underwear. We cannot ignore the function of what is worn beneath women’s clothing but we can make sure it looks good and is designed well.
BY LORNA KNIGHT
We show you some specific skills so you can see just how easy it is to make lingerie at home. These will include attaching lace and elastic, creating decorative details and choosing and cutting fabric. Try out the techniques here and have a go at the projects on the sewing project page - Lacy Knickers.
Find out how to attach elastic and lace. Having learnt and practiced these techniques it will be possible to make bras, knickers, waist slips and swimwear. Follow the simple steps and try out the techniques before making a pair of knickers using the pattern we’ve included or by choosing a project of your own to sew.
ATTACHING ELASTIC
The traditional method of attaching elastic was to create a casing and thread the elastic through with a bodkin or safety pin. While this method works effectively, it produces extra bulk which can cause discomfort in underwear.
Manufactured garments with elasticated waists which are sold on the high street have the elastic sewn on to the edge. This is much more comfortable to wear and the technique can be recreated at home.
Try making the following sample using the quarter pinning technique which helps to distribute the gathers evenly along the length.Materials
- Knicker or edge elastic approximately 40cm (16”) long
Rectangle of fabric approximately 50 cm (20”) long - Thread to match
- Divide the elastic into four equal parts by folding in half and half again. Place pins to mark the quarters.
- Divide the long edge of the rectangle of fabric into four equal parts as above and mark with pins or snip tiny notches.
Match up the pins on the elastic and the pins or notches on the fabric. Join them with pins. Note, the straight edge of the elastic should be level with the fabric edge and the elastic should face the RIGHT side of the cloth. - Set the sewing machine to a three-step zigzag and lengthen the stitch.
NOTE: the stitch length has to be increased as the elastic is stretched for sewing and will shrink back to its original length causing the stitches to shorten too. 
Place the end of the fabric and the elastic under the presser foot at the start. Sew three or four stitches to anchor the threads and make sure the needle is down then pull gently to extend the elastic to the fabric to the first pin. Hold on to the tails of thread behind the needle and sew to the first pin. Remove the pin and repeat, working to the next pin each time. The elastic is easier to handle in short lengths. 
Fold the elastic to the wrong side and position the end under the presser foot. - As in step 5, sew a few stitches to anchor the threads then pull to extend the elastic and sew the three step zigzag stitch along the length.
SEWING IN A CIRCLE
Having mastered quarter pinning on a straight piece of cloth, try it in a circle. This eliminates the bulk in the seam as the elastic and fabric lie flat. Use the same method of attaching the elastic as above.
HANDY HINTS - To calculate the length of elastic to use the general guide is to measure the part of the body eg waist and cut the elastic to 80% or 4/5 of this measurement. The process of stitching the elastic to the fabric extends it slightly. NB: The choice of fabric and the individual elastic being used may need different requirements so always try a sample first.
USES -Use this method to attach elastic on the legs of knickers, swimming costumes and leotards: waists on slips and light summer skirts: around the upper and lower edges of a bra
ATTACHING LACE EDGING
Nowadays there are beautiful laces available in various types and materials. Lace can add that extra touch to a piece of lingerie when sewn to an edge or as a panel. Try out the ideas below and use them to make night dresses, camisoles and knickers even more special.Materials
- 30 cm (12”) lace edging
- Rectangle of fabric approximately 30 cm (12”) long
- Thread to match
1. Lay the lace over the edge of the fabric with the edges level. Pin in place and tack if necessary.
2. Set the sewing machine for a small even zigzag (2 mm stitch length and 2mm stitch width).
HANDY HINT: The suggested 2mm zigzag stitch size is a guide only. Try a sample first to check if it is suitable for the fabric and lace being used.
3. Machine stitch with zigzag along the upper border of the lace furthest away from the edge. The easiest way to do this is to sew in short sections. Do not try to wave along the curved edge as the lace and fabric will move. Simply sew a few stitches, leave the needle down in the lace and lift the presser foot. Adjust the lace then lower the presser foot and continue to sew.
4. When the lace has been attached, trim away the fabric behind the lace. Trim 3 mm (1/8”) from the zigzag stitching.
HANDY HINT: On many fabrics, especially those of a knitted construction, the zigzag stitch will prevent the fabric from fraying but if working with a woven fabric, try a sample first if it frays badly.
USES- Attach lace at the lower edge of a waist slip or underskirt, the neckline of a negligee, the cups of a bra or the hem of French Knickers.
JOINING LACES
When joining two pieces of lace together a plain or overlocked seam can spoil the pattern of the threads. To overcome this problem, the lace can be pieced together. Follow the steps below for edging lace and for all-over lace:
1. When cutting the pattern pieces in lace leave extra large seam allowances. The amount will depend on how elaborate the lace design is.
2. With the right sides of the fabric facing up, lay one piece over the other matching at the seam allowance. Pin the pieces together along a dominant part of the design and tack if necessary.
HANDY HINT: Use a contrast colour thread to tack so the stitching is clearly visible and easily removed later.
3. Set the sewing machine to a small zigzag stitch (approximately 2mm stitch length and 2mm stitch width) and sew along the line traced by pins or tacking thread. As before sew small sections at a time and lift the presser foot, with needle down, to adjust the lace when necessary.
4. Trim the raw edges close to the stitching. The effect is a much less visible seam.
Uses - Use this for seams on dresses and skirts made from an all-over design lace interlined with a plain fabric behind.
This technique has been written for ISEW by Lorna Knight. Lorna teaches all kinds of dressmaking workshops including lingerie and courses on overlockers. For further information contact Lorna at: sew-well@ntlworld.com or tel: 01538 266002.
