Sewing Techniques

Lingerie and Bra Making

Top Ten Tips

Learn to sew the briefest of garments! We’ve the top tips for fabric, cutting, care and sewing from expert Lorna Knight.

1. Choose fabrics wisely – don’t buy ‘dry clean’ and ‘hand wash only’ fabrics if you want to launder the finished garments in the washing machine. Always read the pattern to see the manufacturers advice on fabrics suitable.

2. Use a rotary cutter and large cutting board. Lingerie pattern pieces are often small so they can be placed on the fabric on the board for easier and more accurate cutting.

3.  Cut fabric in a single layer. Cutting through two layers at once is less accurate and can lead to pieces being different sizes.

4.  When using scissors to cut out, place fabric on a sheet rather than directly on to a table surface for cutting out. This will help to prevent the fabric from moving around; especially where the pieces are cut on the bias.

5. Knitted fabric will stretch with the body while woven ones won’t. To get more movement from a woven fabric cut it on the bias, for example a camisole top.

6. Needles – Use a fine (size 9) microtex needle for fine silks. Use a fine stretch needle for jersey fabrics and stretch laces. Change machine needles regularly when you start a new garment.

7. Use a rouleau turner gadget to turn through fine shoestring straps. They will give a delicate finish to a camisole or nightdress.

8. Don’t throw away a good fitting bra at the end of its life as you can take it apart and use it as a pattern for a new one. Save the rings, sliders, hook and wires if undamaged and use them again.

HANDY HINTS: It’s important that you measure yourself correctly, ill-fitting lingerie affects the line of an outer garment and can create unwanted lumps and bumps. It’s said that 70% of women wear the wrong size bra so take a look in our section ‘How to’ for understanding and determining patterns size.

9. When making knickers use two-way stretch fabric for best results.

10. Use the ‘quarter-pin’ method when attaching elastic for example on a waist slip. Mark the waist in four equal parts and do the same with the elastic. As you sew, stretch the elastic to match up the pins with the waist.

HANDY HINT: Well made pretty camisoles look too good to be hidden away, make in complementary colours and wear as a top under a smart suit or under a low cut sweater - less is more! Follow these tips for making your own swimwear too.

This article has been written by Lorna Knight. Lorna Knight teaches lingerie and bra making on her workshops and contact her for more details on tel: 01538 266002 or by email:sew-well@ntlworld.com. She also stocks lingerie supplies.

Thanks to Kwik Sew for providing images to support this article. Kwik Sew patterns can be viewed at www.kwiksew.com or visit www.kwik.sew.se for your local pattern stockist.

New Look and Simplicity patterns can be viewed at www.simplicity.com