Sewing Techniques

Hemming

The choice of hemming method will depend on personal preference, fabric type and project being hemmed. However, two commonly used hemming methods are blind hem and double hem.

Preparing the hem allowance
The hem allowance adds weight to the hem and helps it hang nicely. For instance an A-line skirt in lightweight cottons needs only a little hem allowance of 2.5 – 5 cm (1-2”), medium weight straight skirts, dresses, jackets and trousers benefit from a larger hem allowance of up to 8 cm (3”) whilst curtains frequently have 20 cm (8”) hem allowance.

• Preferably hang the garment or curtain for 24 hours prior to hemming which will allow the fabric to settle and even drop if cut on the bias.
• When hemming garments, try them on with the appropriate underwear and shoes as this effects how the garment will hang.

• Mark hem level from floor upwards, placing pins HORIZONTALLY along the hem line.

HANDY HINT: A gadget called a skirt marker, with chalk puffer is a great for marking hems on skirts and dresses. However, it does need a helping hand from a friend! 

• Working on a flat surface, wrong side out, turn up at hemline, match side, centre back and centre front seams. Pin, placing pins VERTICALLY. Remove the horizontal pins.
  

• Decide on hem allowance and mark the upper limit (nb: the amount of hem allowance needed depends on project, fabric and fullness – see above). Trim hem allowance even if necessary.

Very full or curved hems
If the hem allowance is very full or the hem line is curved it may be necessary to ease in some of the excess hem allowance. To do this, ease stitch 6 mm (1/4”) from the raw edge. If the edge is curved, some easing-in may be necessary. At curved edges, gather stitch 1/4 in. (6 mm) from edge, using a slightly longer stitch than normal and then carefully pull up the bobbin thread, easing in the fullness so it fits the skirt.

Finishing raw hem edge
Prior to stitching the hem in place, it is advisable to finish the raw edge by overcasting, or zigzag stitching close to the edge and then trimming close to stitching. Fabrics that do not fray, such as stretch knits and fleece do not need neatening.

HANDY HINT: Before overcasting hem edge of garment, test stitching on scrap of same fabric to check stitches lie flat. If they do not, adjust lengths and widths bit by bit until they do.

DOUBLE HEMMING
This is the quickest and easiest method of hemming and is suitable for light to medium weight fabrics with STRAIGHT edges such as trousers, skirts and dresses as well as soft furnishings. The hem depth depends on fabric weight. Lightweight sheers and cottons can have minimal 2 cm (3/4”) hem allowance whilst curtains will require 20 cm (8”).

1. Take up hem and prepare hem allowance as above, excluding neatening hem allowance.

2. Working with garment inside out, fold hem allowance up at hem level and then tuck the raw edge in again so that it meets the first fold. Press then stitch by hand, or machine.

3. If machining, top stitch (stitching that shows on the top) from the right side, close to the inner fold of the hem. If desired, stitch again – working in the same direction, close to the hem edge to provide two parallel lines of stitching.

HANDY HINT: Use contrast coloured thread or even decorative stitch to make the hem a feature of the garment.

4. Press carefully from the wrong side

BLIND HEM BY MACHINE
A blind hem is quite literally not supposed to be visible from the outside at all, although a machine stitched blind hem may leave a trace of tiny ladder like stitches on the right side. To minimize the visibility on the right side, use a thread colour in both bobbin and needle that closely matches the garment.

Blind hem stitch is created by a combination of a few straight stitches then one zigzag stitch. It is also necessary to use a blind hem foot (most sewing machines include one in the set of basic feet). This has a vertical guide in the centre against which the hem allowance fold is butted (diagram shows how to fold hem allowance).

1. Prepare the hem allowance as above then fold up to hem level and pin at right angles to hem edge.

2. Fold hem allowance back on itself so that just 6 mm (1/4”) of neatened hem edge is visible on the right hand side.

3. Snap on the Blind Hem Foot and place hem under foot so that the folded edge is against the vertical guide on the foot.

HANDY HINT: On many sewing machines it is also possible to adjust the needle position to left or right so that the zigzag stitch only just catches the folded fabric to the left. Test on scrap of fabric before tackling main garment.

4.    Once complete, fold hem back to wrong side so stitches are concealed within hem allowance. Press carefully from wrong side to set the stitches, avoiding pressing the hem edge which should be left soft and rounded.

BLIND HEM BY HAND
Again the reason to blind hem by hand is to prevent any stitches showing on the right side. Also, by stitching within the hem allowance rather than along the edge of hem allowance, a ridge that can show through to right side is avoided. Use a thread colour to match garment.

1. Prepare hem allowance as step 1 of Blind Hem by Machine, including neatening the raw hem edge.

2. Turn up hem at hem level, pinning in place HORIZONTALLY, with seams, centre back and front matching.

3. Starting at a seam, fold back 13 mm (1/2”) of hem allowance and hold folded with one hand. Secure thread to seam allowance of seam then bring thread up through folded back hem allowance. Then pick up one or two fibres of the garment fabric before bringing needle back through folded hem allowance approximately 6 - 13 mm (1/4 – ½”) in front of last stitch. Continue in this manner along the hem.

HANDY HINT: Every 20 cm (8”) or so, back stitch 2-3 stitches in hem allowance to secure thread so that if the hem does start to come down in the future, only a small part will be affected.

HANDY HINT: If unsure how successfully you can take just one or two fibres in main fabric, fuse some fusible edge tape to the WRONG side of garment under the hem allowance, close to neatened edge. Then pick up fibres from edge tape rather than garment – ensures no stitches will appear on right side.

Article has been written by Wendy Gardiner
Illustrations by Jane Bennett, tel: 023 92 412687