Sewing Techniques

Darts

Darts are one of the ways used to shape fabric to fit over body contours at bust, hips and shoulders. The majority are single V-shape, with the widest part of the V at the outer edge, tapering to a point. Waist darts, found on dresses, fitted jackets and shirts may be double, with a point at either end, widening in the middle.

General dart tips

• On patterns, darts are shown as V-shaped broken lines with dots. These markings are transferred to fabric (with tailor’s tacks or chalk marks).
• Stitch darts from the widest part to the point.
• To prevent a ridge at the point, do NOT backstitch at the point, rather if your machine has the function, fix/lock stitch, alternatively leave thread tails to knot.

• Darts in light to medium weight fabric can be pressed flat and to one side. As a rule, vertical darts are pressed towards the centre and horizontal darts are pressed downwards.
• Darts in heavyweight fabric should be pressed and then cut open to within 1 cm (3/8”) of the point.

HANDY HINT: Do NOT make waist darts in linings as it is difficult to get them to line up perfectly with main fabric, or they can cause ridges to show through. Instead take tucks in the fabric instead.

Single darts
These can be sewn straight, for a regular fit or curved for a closer fit. With RIGHT sides together, fold fabric, matching dots and stitching lines, pin in place.

HANDY HINT: Although patterns recommend pinning at right angles, if pin basting, this is one time when it is easier to pin down the stitching line, but take care to remove pins as you sew.

If the dart is straight, it is easy to pin baste, however, if it is curved, mark the whole stitching line with basting or chalk line to ensure you stitch the curve correctly.

Double ended darts
A double ended dart, used for fitted dresses, shirts, jackets and tops, can be used to shape back of fabric, from shoulder to hip, or to shape front from below bust to hip. Treat as two single darts joined in centre, with the widest part at the centre of the dart.

Fold out dart as usual, with RIGHT sides together and pin or baste. Start stitching at CENTRE, stitching to one point, lock/fix stitch or leave thread tails to knot. Then starting at CENTRE again, overlapping stitches for approx 1 cm (3/8”), stitch to other point.

To help the dart lie flat, clip through widest part of dart fold. On fabrics that fray easily, add a tiny dab of Fray Check to cut fabric to prevent fraying.

Adding darts
Darts can easily be added if desired.
Waist darts - generally waist darts on skirts and trousers, used to provide shaping between waist and hip, are positioned half way between centre front/back and side seam, with the length finishing just above hip height. The amount of fabric to be darted out is the difference between hip and waist measurements. Remember to divide this measurement by four (2 darts front, 2 darts back). However, avoid taking darts any wider than 3 cm (1 ½”) – if it is necessary to take out more fabric for shaping, ie: for a narrow back, make two smaller darts close together. Press darts towards centre.

Tops - bust darts are added from side seam, 5-8 cm (2-3”) below armhole, to within 2.5 cm (1”) of bust point. The width at the widest part of the dart will depend on bust cup size – larger sizes need wider darts to provide more shaping. Press dart downwards.