Sewing Techniques

Buttons and Buttonholes

With so many people wary of even sewing on buttons nowadays, we’ve included an easy step-by step guide as well as demystifying the art of stitching perfect buttonholes. It’s easy when you know how!

BUTTONS
Buttons either have a shank (a loop on the back) or have holes to sew through. Those with holes are used on light to medium weight fabric such as shirts, blouses etc whilst those with shanks are used for heavier weight fabrics or when they need to be passed through multi-layers of fabric such as fastenings on coats and jackets.

General sewing tips

• Position – pin fabric layers together as if already fastened and then mark button placement through buttonhole using a pin or chalk pencil. For vertical buttonholes mark 3 mm (1/3”) from top of buttonhole, and for horizontal buttonholes, mark 3mm (1/8”) from outer edge of buttonhole.
• Thread – use thread double, and no more than 46 cm (18”) in length to prevent tangling and knots. On shank buttons use buttonhole thread if available (slightly thicker and stronger).  Secure thread underneath button placement by taking a few tiny stitches on the same spot.
• Fastening off thread – Once button is sewn in place, take thread to underside and stitch two-three times on the spot. Then feed needle between fabric layers and pulling taut, snip thread close to fabric so it will disappear within the layers.
• Sew through buttons – fasten more easily and remain in place longer if a mini thread shank is added when the button is attached. This helps the button go through fabric layers more easily and lay flat when fastened.

• To do this, place a matchstick on top of the button and stitch over it when sewing button to fabric. Sew through holes at least 4-6 times, then take needle back through button and out between fabric and button.

• Remove matchstick. Pull button away from fabric so the excess thread is between fabric and button, then wrap the thread around this excess about 4 times to create a thread shank. Take thread to underside to fasten off.

• Shank buttons – use double thread as before. Sew through the shank, catching fabric either side, several times. Coats often have a sew-through button on the underside as further support for the button closure. Sew in place at same time as the shank button, going through to underside, through button and back to front each time. Finish off by taking stitches on spot on underside before feeding needle in between layers and pulling taut before cutting end off.
  

BUTTONHOLES
Often avoided by novice dressmakers, buttonholes are really easy nowadays because today’s modern machines are programmed to stitch perfect buttonholes every time.

A basic buttonhole is made up of a bar tack at either end with straight row of satin stitching (very close zigzags) down both sides. This is normally stitched as 1. bar tack at one end; 2. satin stitch one side; 3. bar tack other end; 4. satin stitch second side. Alternatives can include a row of straight stitching down both sides and fix/lock stitching at the beginning and end. Some machines stitch from front to back, others start at back and stitch forwards to front. Do try out on scrap of fabric first to see which way your machine stitches buttonholes.

General sewing tips

• Foot – nearly all sewing machines come with a basic buttonhole foot (see users manual). Some have optional automatic feet which makes buttonholes even easier. For instance some machines have a foot with a place in the back for the button to fit. The hole is then stitched to suit the button exactly. Other computerized machines offer the facility to determine the length by the exact amount of millimeters needed and then stitch this repeatedly (see measuring buttons below).

• Fabric - Buttonholes can be sewn in any type of fabric, from lightweight voiles to heavyweight furnishing fabrics. However, the key is to stabilise the fabric to prevent it puckering or even being pulled into the feed dogs.
• Needle - Make sure the needle is suitable for the fabric weight and is not blunt. Buttonholes are stitched with a tight satin stitch, which is very concentrated stitches close together so it is important that the needle can penetrate the fabric easily.
• Thread – a general purpose sewing thread is perfectly adequate. However, if stitching a decorative buttonhole that is to be a feature, use a buttonhole thread which is stronger and thicker.
• Stabiliser – all buttonholes should be stabilized to give them support and body. Usually this is catered for by the interfacing between facings and main garment. However, if a lightweight fabric is being stitched without interfacing, add a layer of tearaway stabiliser underneath the buttonhole to prevent it from bunching, puckering or being pulled into the feed dogs.
  

BUTTONHOLE SIZE

• Determining size – commercial patterns recommend button size and supply guide lines on the tissue to make the buttonholes to fit. However if working without a pattern, measure across width of button and add 3 mm (1/8”). Domed or novelty buttons might need larger buttonholes to allow room for shape. Determine size by measuring the circumference of button and adding 3 mm (1/8”).
• Positioning – buttonhole should be a minimum of 1-2 cm from edge of fabric (3/8 – ¾”).  Place buttonholes approximately 6-8 cm apart (2 ½ - 3”).
  Those stitched on lightweight fabric can be closer if desired. For furnishings, the distance between buttons can be wider, say 10 – 13 cm (4 – 5”) apart.
• Horizontal buttonholes - For a row of horizontal buttonholes, draw or thread baste two parallel chalk lines down the area to be stitched, the distance between the rows equal to the buttonhole width. Then mark each buttonhole across the divide, approximately
  6 – 8 cm apart (2 ½ - 3”).
• Vertical buttonholes – for a row of vertical buttonholes, chalk mark or thread baste a line down the centre of the buttonhole area and then mark the buttonhole positioning using different coloured thread or chalk to mark top and bottom of buttonholes. Again space them equally apart along the line.

HANDY HINT: If adding buttonholes down centre of front opening dress, blouse etc, make sure that a button is positioned at the fullest part of the bust

To make a buttonhole
1. Prepare the fabric by interfacing the buttonhole section. On lightweight fabrics, add an extra layer of tearaway stabiliser below each individual buttonhole area.

2. Mark buttonhole position at least 2 cm (3/4”) from edge of fabric. See above for marking vertical or horizontal buttonholes. If using commercial patterns, simply transfer the buttonhole markings from tissue to right side of fabric.

3. Snap on the buttonhole foot.  Set the sewing machine to buttonhole stitch. Note this might be a one-step, three or five step buttonhole.  One step buttonholes mean that the whole buttonhole is stitched from start to finish in one go. If a three-step:
- Start with stage 1. Once complete, the machine will stop ready for you to turn the dial to step 2.
- Now keep an eye on the length of side stitched, you may have to halt once stitching reaches chalk line.
- Turn dial back to stage 1 for second bar tack.
- Then step 3 for final side. Again you may have to stop stitching once first bar tack reached.

HANDY HINT: Try out buttonhole on scrap of fabric, using same number of layers and interfacings as main garment.

4. Position garment under foot, with needle ready to insert into the correct end of buttonhole placement mark (which end of buttonhole depends on which way your machine stitches – from front of buttonhole to back, or other way round).

6. Once stitched out, feed thread tails through to back of work and then through the close stitching of one side before cutting off.

7. Use the sharp seam ripper (quick unpick) to open buttonhole, placing a pin at one end and starting at the other (the pin acts as a stop, preventing you going too far with the seam ripper).

This article has been written by Wendy Gardiner
Illustrations by Jane Bennett, tel: 023 92 412687