Sewing Techniques
Buttonholes on Sheer and Stretch Fabric
Many modern sewing machines offer a selection of pre-programmed buttonholes and will automatically make them to the correct size. But the sewer still needs to decide on the type of hole required and where to position it. Here we show you how to create professional buttonholes on sheer and stretch fabric.
Buttonholes on sheer fabric
Buttonholes are a point of stress on any garment and must be made through two layers of fabric with some form of interfacing applied.
Use this type of buttonhole of delicate blouses and christening robes that use small buttons.
Steps
1. Place one or two layers of silk organza between two layers of fabric and a strip of transparent stabiliser on the surface.
2. Mark the position of the buttonholes on the transparent film and baste the layers of cloth together.
3. Select the lightweight buttonhole on your sewing machine, fit a fine new needle and attach the buttonhole presser foot.
4. Stitch the buttonhole in place, following the instructions in your sewing machine’s manual.
5. Trim away the organza and the transparent film. Open the buttonhole using a seam ripper.
HANDY TIPS:
This lightweight buttonhole makes a finer finish with smaller stitches which looks better on delicate, sheer fabrics made from silk, cotton and polyester.
Use silk organza in a neutral colour and a transparent stabiliser. Use a fine NEW needle size 9 or smaller and a fine silk thread or machine embroidery thread.
After trimming away the stabiliser, press buttonhole gently using a pressing cloth to protect the fabric.
Buttonholes on Stretch Fabric
For buttonholes on stretch fabric use a water-soluble stabiliser, clear tape and Gimp thread or cord.
Use this sort of buttonhole on garments made from stretch or knitted fabric such as jackets.
Steps
1. Place a layer of water-solubale stbiliser between the two layers of fabric and a strip of transparent stabiliser on the surface.
2. Mark the position of the buttonhole and baste the layers of cloth in place.
3. Select the buttonhole for stretch fabric, fit a stretch needle and attach the buttonhole presser foot.
4. Place the centre of the gimp over the hook at the back of the presser foot and sew, covering the gimp.
5. Pull the gimp up to the end of the buttonhole bar and neaten the ends. Open the buttonhole with a seam ripper.
HANDY HINTS:
The gimp may not be necessary on lighter stretch materials.
Use a ballpoint needle and polyester thread.
Use an embroidery needle to take the gimp thread to the wrong side of the fabric.
Increase the stitch length slightly if a dedicated stretch buttonhole is provided on your sewing machine.
Having neatened the gimp and trimmed away stabilisers, press gently using a presing cloth to protect the fabric.
Further Information
This information has been taken from The Sewing Stitch Bible by Lorna Knight. The Sewing Stitch (ISBN 9781844482863). This book contains a comprehensive guide to the huge range of stitches used in all types of sewing from dressmaking, soft furnishings and tailoring through to decorative sewing and basic repairs. Clearly laid out in a handy spiral bound format and illustrated throughout with close up colour photos, it opens with a general introduction to sewing tools and equipment.
This invaluable guide will prove useful to sewers of all levels of expertise and is sure to be referred to over and again. ‘The Sewing Stitch Bible’ is available in hardback for £14.99 from all good bookshops or contact Search Press on tel: 01892 510850.
