Sewing Techniques
Bias Binding
Bound edges look great on edge to edge jackets, necklines, sleeveless armholes and a whole lot of soft furnishings. At the same time as providing a decorative finishing touch, they cover, and thus neaten raw edges. They are ideal on garments where the reverse will show as edges are all neat and uniform and on transparent fabrics where any facings would show through.
Bias binding is made from bias cut fabric so it will curve neatly without ripples. It can be purchased ready made in a variety of thicknesses and fabrics, from plain cottons and satins to fluorescent stretch polyesters. Alternatively, bias binding can be made from any fabric.
Most bias bindings are double folded – the raw edges of the long sides are turned under by approx 6 mm (1/4") and then the binding is folded in half again along the length.
Another type of bias tape is Foldover Braid. This is simply folded in two, just off centre so that one edge is wider than the other. The narrow edge is attached first so that when folded to other side encasing raw edges, the wider edge can be stitched in place from the front, by ‘stitching in the ditch’ (stitching in the seam line formed by first row of stitching pulling the seam apart gently as you go).
Making bias binding
Nifty little gadgets called bias tape makers make the job so much easier. They are available in a variety of sizes to produce bindings from as narrow as 6 mm (1/4") up to furnishing widths of 5-8 cm (2-3").
Work out the folded width required – for most dressmaking 12.5 mm (1/2") is ideal, for lightweight sheers a thinner binding can be used. Then double this and add 12 mm (1/2") for seam allowances on long edges – 6 mm (1/4") per edge. Thus for a 12 mm wide folded tape you need strips at least 37 mm wide (1 ½").
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HANDY HINT: Make a cardboard template the width of the bias trim needed to use as a guide when marking out the lengths of bias fabric.
Continuous strip – this is ideal if you need quite a lot of bias tape as it avoids too many joins. Cut a rectangle of fabric and ‘square’ it up, making sure the cut edges go along a thread grain. To find the true bias of the fabric (45 degree angle to selvedge) – fold the cut edge up to selvedge and lightly press the fold. Unfold – the crease is on the bias.
- Using ruler and chalk pencil draw the first line on the crease, then use the cardboard template to mark the next line (or measure 37 mm (1 ½") from the line) and draw another parallel to the first. Continue in this way until you reach the corners.
- Cut off the triangular corners of unmarked fabric at either end of the rectangle.
- With RIGHT sides together, fold the rectangle into a tube, matching the lines so that one width of binding extends beyond the edge on each side. Sew short ends together taking a narrow 6 mm (1/4") seam and then press seam open.
Starting at one end, cut along the chalk line, working around the tube until the end – you will have a long continuous length of bias fabric.
HANDY HINT: If fabric is 115 cm wide (45") a 12.5 cm x 115 cm wide rectangle (5 x 45") will make approximately 230 cm (2 ½ yd) of binding.
Individual strips – if you don’t have enough fabric to make a rectangle or just want to join ready-made strips, place short ends, with RIGHT sides together at right angles (90 degrees) to each other. Sew together with a narrow 6 mm (1/4") seam. Cut off extending points and then press and open out.
Cut one end into a point and feed this through the bias tape maker. Working on an ironing board with hot iron, gently pull the strip through the bias tape maker - which folds it as it goes through – and press immediately as it comes out the end to press the folds in place.
Applying bias binding
- Open out one long edge of the bias binding and with RIGHT sides together, pin to garment edge, matching raw edges. Machine stitch in place, stitching in the crease of the opened out foldline.
- Trim seam allowances to 6 mm (1/4"), clipping and notching curves, (see Seam Finishes) and then press towards binding.
- Fold binding over to WRONG side, encasing raw edges and pin in place, with pins placed at right angles.
- Either slip stitch in place by hand OR machine stitch from the RIGHT side, ‘stitching in the ditch’ by stitching over the first line of stitches, gently pulling the seam apart as you go.
Overlapping ends
If binding ends will meet, for instance, when the outer edge is continuously bound, the ends should be overlapped in an inconspicuous place. Turn raw edge of one under and press. Pin this end to garment, following step 1 above. When the start is reached again, lap the unpressed raw edge of binding over the pressed end by approx 12.5 mm (1/2") so that when folded over to wrong side, the folded end will be uppermost.
Outside corners - you can either start each edge separately or fold and turn the binding, which gives a neater finish. To do this:
- Mark the seam lines at the corners on the fabric. Stitch binding to garment edge as above, ending stitching
where the seams intersect at the corner. Back stitch a few stitches then cut the thread.
- Fold the binding up and to the right to create a diagonal crease. Fold again, keeping the diagonal crease in place, so that the tape is now in line with the next
edge.
- Insert the needle at the corner intersection point and continue stitching.
- Turn to wrong side as before, making a diagonal fold in the corner.
Slip stitch in place, stitching the corner as well if desired.
This article was written by Wendy Gardiner
Illustrations by Jane Bennett, tel: 023 92 412687
