Sewing Techniques

Guidelines for Adjusting Fit

If you’re one of the few people who can buy clothing right off the rack, congratulations! The rest of us usually need to make some small (or large) fitting adjustments. If you’ve got a couple of impulse purchases still hanging in the back of your wardrobe or you just can’t seem to fit into some of those old favourites—a quick tuck or a loosened seam might be just what your wardrobe needs!

HANDY HINT: It's hard to see the back of a garment when you're wearing it, so enlist the help of a friend to pin and mark adjustments—and possibly offer an opinion on the fit.

Fitting Tips

• Launder the item first. If it’s new, it might shrink in the wash. If not, you want to remove any dirt so you don’t press it into the fabric as you are making the alteration.

• Try on the garment while wearing the proper undergarments and accessories.

• Bear in mind that it’s easier to make something smaller than larger.

• Pin the alterations from the right side of the garment. Double-check to make sure that you like how the alteration looks before you begin sewing.

• Mark the pin locations on the inside of the garment and baste along the
markings.

• Try on the garment again after basting to make sure the alteration is still correct.

HANDY HINT: Save the altering of tailored garments, eveningwear, and specialty fabrics for the tailor.

Narrowing trouser legs, shortening spaghetti straps, and letting out a seam are quick fixes that can even be done by hand.

• Press often as you sew for a crisp, precise result.

• Make some notes about the garment, so you can match the thread, stitch length, and construction methods.

• Work with a seam ripper to take out any seams that need adjustment.

• Press out all crease lines. Plan to conceal any crease lines that can't be eliminated by pressing.

• Press with a damp press cloth to close visible holes left after ripping out a seam.

WHEN IT’S TOO TIGHT

When a garment is too tight, the first and easiest option is to let out a side seam or another vertical seam. The standard seam allowance is 15 mm (5/8"), but in manufactured garments the allowance is often trimmed. Usually you can gain 6 mm (1/2") at each seam, which might be just enough to make the garment fit more comfortably.

Adjusting at the seams

Measure from the original seam line to the edge of the fabric to see how much extra fabric you gain.

You'll need a minimum of 6 mm (1/4") for a new seam allowance. If there's 13 mm (1/2”) or more beyond that, you'll be able to increase the garment by at least 13 mm (1/2”) per seam.

Side seams, sleeves, and armholes are the easiest seams to let out. Pull out the seam with the seam ripper. Press both sides and restitch close to, but not on, the raw edge.

Widening seam allowances

If the seam allowances are too narrow to allow much extra width, sew a strip of twill tape or seam tape to the edges. Press. Resew the seam very close to the tape extensions, without catching them in the seam.

Adding a gusset

A gusset is a piece of fabric of any shape that is inserted into a seam to allow greater ease of movement. A gusset is usually added at side seams and is made of matching fabric (if possible), but you can also use contrast fabric or trim.

To make a gusset, rip out the seams that are too tight. Try on the garment and measure the gap in the open seams. Cut a gusset large enough to fill the gap (with seam allowances). Pin the gusset at the seams.

Try on the garment again and adjust the gusset to ensure a comfortable fit. Sew the new seams.

Closing side-seam pockets

If pockets on the side seams gape open, turn the garment inside out and sew the pockets closed. Cut away the pocket bags inside the garment and zigzag the edges.

WHEN IT’S TOO LOOSE

Changing an entire garment to a smaller size is a job best left to a tailor. Otherwise, to fix a loose fit, you can just take in any one of a number of seams. The biggest challenge you face when taking in seams is preserving the silhouette and drape of the garment.

Taking in Straight Seams

Pin the alteration and try on the garment. Baste the new seams and try on the garment again. When you are satisfied with the fit, stitch the seams with a standard stitch length. Trim the excess fabric. Press and zigzag the edges.

HANDY HINT: Whenever possible, distribute the adjustment by altering two or more seams a little, rather than one seam a lot.

Taking in a Trouser Waistband at Centre Back

1. Try on the trousers and have a friend pin the excess fabric at the centre back seam.

2. With a fabric-marking pen or tailor’s chalk, mark the pin locations to create a new stitching line inside the trousers.

3. Remove the belt loop and waistband facing and open the centre back seam with a seam ripper. If there is no seam, cut the existing waistband at centre back.

4. Stitch the new centre back seam, extending it through the waistband facing. Trim the excess fabric, if desired. Press the seam allowances open and resew the facing. Reattach the belt loop.

Further information

This extract is from Singer Simple, Mending and Repair by Sonya Nimri, published by Creative Publishing International and available in the UK from RotoVision (ISBN 9781589233409). This latest title in the Singer Simple series focuses on tips and techniques for every sewing situation from sewing on a button to repairing delicate eveningwear. Clearly laid out in a spiral bound stand-up format, each technique is accompanied by excellent illustrations, step-by-step instructions and useful additional tips. Priced £12.99 it is available from bookstores or contact RotoVision on tel: 01273 727268.