Sewing Techniques

Busted – adjusting tops to fit bigger boobs

As so many women today are larger than a B cup, we’ve some easy to follow tips on how to adjust different bodices to fit fuller figures

Adjusting a Chemise-style Bodice for a Full Bust

1. Draw Line A on pattern front 5 cm (2”) above waistline and perpendicular to centre front and centre back. Draw line B 13 mm (1/2”) down from underarm and perpendicular to centre front. Draw Line C parallel to centre front, midway between side seam and strap placement mark, ending at Line A. For full-size pattern, use only one-half of the pattern piece.

HANDY HINT: For back pattern piece, draw line 5 cm (2”) below waistline as above, cut apart at marked lines. If back waist length is longer than pattern measurement, spread pattern pieces apart by amount needed. If back waist length is shorter than pattern, lap pattern pieces by the required amount.

2. Mark bust point at intersection of vertical line through strap placement mark and horizontal line through centre of ease area at side seam; if pattern has a dart, it will point to the bust point.


3. Cut pattern on Lines A and B. Make back waist length adjustment at Line A, if necessary (as above). Compare measurement of pattern, from bust point to waistline, to body measurement. Spread the pattern along Line B an amount equal to the difference; tape pattern in place, adding tissue paper.

4. Cut pattern on Line C. Place tissue paper under pattern. Spread middle side section along Line C, 13 mm (1/2”) for C-cup, 2 cm (3/4”) for D-cup, or 2.5 cm (1”) for DD-cup. Spread the upper side section along Line C, half the distance the middle section was moved. Tape pattern in place. Draw new cutting lines to resemble original lines. Make full-size pattern if desired. Gather extra fullness in bust area when sewing garment.

How to Adjust an Empire-style Bodice for a Full Bust

1. Draw Line A from placement mark for straps through centre of ease on lower edge of bodice. Draw Line B from midpoint of Line A to upper edge at centre front line. Draw Line C from midpoint of Line A to upper edge at side seam.

2. Cut on Line A from lower edge of bodice to midpoint of Line A. Cut on lines B and C to, but not through, outer edges of pattern.

3. Place tissue paper under pattern. Spread pattern at bust point, 13 mm (1/2”) for C-cup, 2 cm (3/4”) for D-cup, or 2.5 cm (1”) for DD-cup. Tape pattern in place. Draw curved cutting line on tissue at lower edge.

How to Adjust a Princess-style Bodice for a Full Bust

1.  Tape tissue paper under side front pattern. Measure out from cutting line at fullest part of bustline curve, and mark tissue to add 13 mm (1/2”) for C-cup, 2 cm (3/4”) for D-cup, or 2.5 cm (1”) for DD-cup.

2. Draw new cutting line from mark at bustline, tapering to original cutting line at upper edge and 10 cm (4”) below mark.

3. Draw horizontal line on centre front pattern at the fullest part of bustline curve; cut on marked line. Spread pattern same amount added in step 1, adding tissue paper. Tape in place. Draw new cutting line in adjustment area.

BOOK OFFER

This project has been reproduced from Sewing Lingerie, published by Apple Press. Beautifully photographed throughout, it shows how to work with typical lingerie fabrics such as satins, tricots and knits, including cutting out, sewing seams, and adding a variety of finishes such as bound and picot edging. There are some useful tips on making basic pattern adjustments and the book guides the reader through constructing a wide range of garments including pants, camisoles, slips, sports bras, nightgowns, pyjamas, and unisex robes. This is a very inspiring book and some of the techniques would also be relevant to sewing for fashion and eveningwear.

ISEW web browsers can purchase Sewing Lingerie (ISBN 9781845432010) at the special price of £7.99 with free post and packing, UK only (rrp £9.99). To order a copy please call Apple’s hotline on 01476 541080 quoting ref: LING. OR you can place an order online at www.amazon.co.uk. For more information on books published by Apple Press, please visit www.apple-press.com