Sewing Techniques

Lining a Skirt

Adding a lining, adds fluidity to a garment, helps it crease less, hang nicely and fit better. Our tips on lining a skirt can be used on any pattern, even those without linings included in the instructions.

A lining should be a tightly woven, lightweight fabric. There are two methods of insertion – the interlining method (construction lining) and the slip-lining method.

• Cut the lining from the same pattern pieces as the skirt with the exception of the waistband or facing.
• Mark centre front and back and notches on skirt fabric. On lining, mark centres, notches and darts.

• With marked side up, pin lining to WRONG side of skirt pieces, raw edges even,
  matching centres and notches.
• Baste together 13 mm (1/2”) from raw edges and through the centre line of the darts.
• Make up skirt, treating the two layers as one until you are ready to hem.

Hemming
Mark hem length up from floor. Press up and trim hem allowance to an even width (if necessary). Then either:

A. Unfold hem and hand baste lining to skirt about 13 mm (1/2”) below the hem fold with long and short running stitches.  Then turn up hem using preferred method. OR

B. Trim hem allowance on lining away along the fold line. Then turn up skirt hem again and finish with preferred method.

Slip-lining method

With this method the lining and skirt are worked separately and then sewn together at the waistline.

• Cut lining from the same pieces as the skirt, excluding waistband.
• Make up as two separate garments, first making the skirt up except the waistband and hem.

• Make up lining, leaving an opening for the zip 2.5 cm (1”) longer than in the skirt. Press seams open and darts away from the centre.

HANDY HINT: Rather than making darts in the lining fabric, simply tuck the excess dart fabric into a fold and stitch across within seam allowance to hold. This avoids the problem of matching up darts at front and back and provides a little more give in the lining for movement.

• With wrong sides together, pin lining to skirt, matching darts, centres and sides and with
  raw edges even at waistline.
• Turn under the edges of the lining along the zip tape and stitch to tape.
• Machine baste waistline edges together 13 mm (1/2”) from edge.
• Sew waistband or facing to skirt following pattern instructions.

HANDY HINT: If making a skirt with waist facing, the facing can be left off reducing bulk at waist. To do this, sew lining to skirt at waist with RIGHT sides together rather than wrong sides together. Trim seam allowance turn through, rolling seam slightly to inside and press. Top stitch close to edge. Then slip stitch lining to zip tape.

Hemming

Hem the skirt first, turning up an equal distance from the floor. Then make the lining hem
approximately 13 mm (1/2”) shorter than the skirt. NB The lining hem can be a machine stitched hem.

These lining tips are from Simplicity patterns. For further information on Simplicity patterns visit:www.simplicitynewlook.com or for local stockists
tel: 0161 480 8734.