Sewing Projects
Make it in minutes!
So many parties, so little time? Don’t despair this virtually disposable party dress will have you ready to party in no time.
Requirements
Glitzy Stretch Fabric
Sequin/Hologram Trim
Marker Pen
Stretch Machine Needle
HANDY HINT: It will help if you have a friend to help with fitting - why not team up and make one each!
To prepare
1. Measure hip size around the fullest part. (this may be at thigh level). Add 3 cm ((1 1/4”) to this measurement. This is the width that the fabric needs to be cut.
nb: Stretch fabric doesn’t need an ease allowance for this design
2. Measure from front bar strap level, down to the required length. Add 2 cm (3/4”) to this measurement. This is the length that the fabric needs to be cut.
3. Cut fabric to size, ensuring that the greatest stretch goes around the body.
4. Reduce the presser foot pressure if possible to prevent wavy seams. Test sew a sample seam. Use a new stretch needle.
HANDY HINT: To machine baste seams means to sew with the longest stitch possible to hold in place.
To make
1. Fold fabric in half lengthways, right sides together, matching edges and ensuring top and bottom edges are level. Machine baste a 15 mm (5/8”) seam allowance to form a tube. This will become the centre back seam.
2. Leave the tube inside out – it’s okay to fit this way with stretch fabric and a single seam design! Try on the dress, placing seam at centre back seam.
Pin Fitting
3. Have someone help by pinning some shape along the back to define the waist. Pins need to be placed along the seamline, curving in at the waist level and out at the hip. If the fabric is very stretchy it may need taking in along the entire seam.
Reshaping Centre Back
4. Remove the dress. Mark along the length of the pins with fabric pen or pencil. Set machine on a slight zigzag stitch to build stretch into the stitch. Stitch length 2.5 stitch width 0.5. Sew new seam line.
5. Remove basting stitches. Press seam flat to embed the stitch. Trim back to 15 mm (5/8”) seam allowance, where necessary. Press seam open.
Reshaping Ne
ckline
6. Try on dress. Leave inside out. Turn over 2 cm (3/4”) along top edge across front. Have someone help to turn a little more seam allowance over at the underarm and across the back to build shape into the dress. It needs to be higher across front chest, dipping gradually underarm, leveling off again at centre back. Check that both sides are equal before pinning along seamline.
Fine Tuning the Fit
7. Before taking the dress off, check that the hem is level. If it dips at the back – lift the fabric level at shoulder blade
height by turning over a deeper seam allowance.
8. Take off the dress and trim excess fabric from top edge leaving a 2 cm (3/4”) seam allowance.
HANDY HINT: Once cut to shape a pattern could be traced to save even more time in the future!
Excess fabric is trimmed from upper edges
Ruching
10. Working from the right side, run two rows of basting stitches down centre front neckline for about 10 cm (4”). Work from the wrong side and machine stitch using a twin needle. Draw the under threads up to form ruching, wrapping each end around a pin in a figure of eight to secure.
11. From the right side sew down the middle of the ruching to hold in place. Remove basting carefully. Attach a length of sequin or hologram trim over the ruching as a finishing touch.
HANDY HINT: Sequin and hologram trim comes in a stick-on variety which saves even more time!
Lettuce Leaf Hem
12. Trim the centre back seam allowance across at an angle at the hem edge to reduce bulk.
13. Set machine on a close zigzag. Stitch length 1.5 stitch width 2.5. Working with right sides up, position hem edge under presser foot so that the right hand swing of the needle fails over the edge. Turn the fly wheel by hand to check position and start at the centre back. Take a couple of stitches to anchor the stitch, holding on to the threads at the back to prevent them getting tangled.
Place one hand flat on the fabric at the back of the machine and the other at the front. Stretch the fabric as you sew. The greatest stretch the more ruffled the hem.
HANDY HINT: It’s’ a good idea to practice this technique on a fabric scrap first. Take care not to over stretch or the thread can snap and the needle may break.
Straps
14. Try on the dress to check the length and position of strap. Cut required length plus 3 cm (1 ¾”) for seam allowance. Sew in place.
Ruching and straps in place complete this garment
Party dress two
Once worn and the celebrations are over, why not revamp the dress by making it into a matching skirt and top - ideal to take on holiday or party outfit number 2 is ready and raring to go!.
* Cut dress across 5 cm (2”) below waist level. Attach elastic to skirt waist edge. Turn elastic inside and top stitch in place stretching as you sew. You now have a hipster skirt!
* Fold the top in half down the centre front so that the side seams are sitting on top of each other. Draw a new shape along the hem edge to create a handkerchief top. Lay a bought one on top and trace the shape if you are unsure.
* Cut along marked line and apply lettuce edging as before.
This project was originally produced by Janet Moville for the January 2001 issue of Sewing World magazine. For more information about Sewing World magazine, visit www.sewingworldmagazine.com.
