Sewing Projects

Kimono

A Kimono is a fabulous garment that is especially suitable for lounge-wear for both men and women.

This project by Linda Neubauer takes you step by step through the process of making a traditionally looking kimono, with separate instructions for the different sleeves suitable for men and women.

In Japan, Kimono refers to a full-length garment that overlaps in the front. Traditionally, kimonos were made from woven panels of silk or wool, 36.8 cm (14 1/2”) wide, that were cut only across the width. Today, the kimono has been embraced by many cultures and adapted to fit modern needs. The kimono is especially suitable for lounge-wear and is popular for both men and women.

While fabrics are now available in many widths, kimonos are still cut and sewn from one basic shape, the rectangle. This simplicity of form offers an ideal showcase for beautiful fabrics as well as for creative surface design treatments. Kimonos are easy to sew because they are constructed using straight seams.

Silk is the fabric most people associate with kimonos. For loungewear, soft silky broadcloth and charmeuse are comfortable and elegant choices. For a more casual look, choose a fine, soft cotton fabric. Cut all pieces on the lengthwise grain, regardless of your fabric choice.

Kimonos are fully lined and have a wide hem

Traditional kimono sleeves add interesting detailing. On women’s kimonos, the lining is revealed at the sleeves.

Draft a kimono pattern based on just two body measurements (see below).

How to measure and cut the garment sections for a kimino

Measure centre back length of a body from neck bone to floor; this is Measurement A.

Measure around neck to determine Measurement B.

Cut garment sections from the other fabric and lining, based on Measurement A above, as indicated on diagram. For example, width of body piece is one-half of Measurement A, or 1/2A.

Mark notches at shoulder line on sleeve, sleeve lining, body, and body lining pieces. Slash along centre front of body and body lining pieces from lower edge to within 13 mm (1/2”) of shoulder line.

Measurement B is used in step 8 below to mark the neckline.

Garment sections include 13 mm (1/2”) seam allowances.

How to Sew a Kimono


1. Cut garment sections, opposite, Stitch sleeves to sleeve linings, right sides together, beginning and ending 20.5 cm (8”) on either side of notch. Clip seam allowances to stitching at ends of stitching, turn right sides out; press.

2. Place sleeves and body section, right sides together, matching the notches (arrow) at shoulder lines. Stitch, beginning and ending a distance equal to 1/6A from notch for women’s kimono, or 1/4A from notch for men’s kimono. Press seams open.

3A.  Men’s kimono. Fold kimono, right sides together, on shoulder line, matching lower edges of sleeve and sleeve lining; pin. Stitch from previous stitching, around sleeve and sleeve lining; end stitching (arrow) a distance equal to 1/4A from notch at shoulder line of the lining.

3B.  Women’s kimono. Fold kimono, right sides together, on shoulder line, matching lower edges of sleeve and sleeve lining; pin. Stitch around sleeve and sleeve lining, starting at lower edge of sleeve and ending at lower edge of lining (arrows).

 


4.  Trim corners. Press the seam allowances open. Turn lining over sleeve, wrong sides together. Press.

 





5.  Stitch side seams of outer garment ending 7.5 cm (3”) from sleeve stitching for women’s kimono or ending at stitching for men’s kimono. Fold body lining along shoulder line, right sides together; match to shoulder line of outer garment. Mark lining at upper end of side seams, starting at mark. Press seams open.

6. Stitch lining to kimono at hem, right sides together; press seam open. Fold lining up over outer garment, wrong sides together, pulling sleeves through armholes in lining.

7A.  Men’s kimono. Reach between lining and outer garment from centre front opening; pin and stitch as in step 2.

7B. Women’s kimono. Reach between lining and outer garment from centre front opening; pin and stitch as step 2 (Seam A). Pin and stitch sleeve to sleeve lining (Seam B). Pin and stitch garment front to front lining (Seam C). Pin and stitch garment back to back lining (Seam D).

8. Measure 1/4 of Measurement B taken earlier, on each side of centre front along shoulder line; mark lining. Measure 46 cm (18”) down from shoulder line along centre front; mark lining. Draw line from centre front mark to within 13 mm (1/2”) of shoulder foldline; draw short line at an angle to fold. Draw back neckline in a straight line along fold.

9.  Machine-baste 13mm (1/2”) from raw edges at front opening and along marked lines. Trim fabric 13mm (1/2”) from stitching. Clip to corners at neckline.

10. Press band in half lengthwise, with wrong sides together and raw edges offset 6 mm (1/4”). Fold raw edges in to meet at crease; press. Refold along centre line, and press; one side should be 3 mm (1/8”) wider than other side. (Steps shown on three bands for clarity.)

11. Open narrow side of band. Place right side down on lining with fold just beyond basting line and narrow side of band extending over edge of garment; at lower edge, extend band 2.5 cm (1”) beyond hemline of garment. Pin in place; stitch along foldline. Trim other end of band to 2.5 cm (1”).

12.  Fold band at lower edge even with hem. Fold band around edge of garment; pin. Edge stitch on band from right side. Make reversible tie belt by using two contrasting fabrics 6.5 x 185 cm (2 ½ x 72”) sewn together and turned through.

Further information and special offer

This project is from Sewing Lingerie by Linda Neubauer, published by Apple Press (ISBN 9781845432010), priced £9.99.  To order please call Apple’s hotline on tel: 01476 541080.