How To

...Understanding Paper Patterns

There are paper patterns for all types of sewing from dressmaking and costumes to crafts and soft furnishings. Understanding just what is in the pattern pack, the symbols and pattern terminology will help make choosing and using them so much easier.

Selecting a pattern
Keep three simple criteria in mind:

• Choose a style that you like - don’t select a pattern just because it is ‘in’ fashion or because it is easy. Many people were turned off sewing at school because they were made to make something they really didn’t like. Half the fun of sewing your own is to be able to show off what you have made.
• Choose design lines that are flattering to your figure – analyse your current wardrobe and the clothes you have that you like and that flatter you. For instance if big busted, avoid high round necks or empire line (seam under bust) which just emphasises the bust size. For those with chunky middles, avoid full gathers at the waist etc.
• Look for design details that are compatible with your sewing skills – if you were learning to cook you wouldn’t start with a soufflé. It’s the same with sewing, start with something simple so that you will be pleased with the results. Look for patterns with few pattern pieces (see the illustrations next to the photography of a design) or patterns that have a ‘time’ allocated. This is the sewing time in which the pattern can be made – thus the shorter the time, the easier it will be (excludes cutting out and fabric preparation). There are also many patterns designated EASY, VERY EASY, FAST & EASY etc.
  

HANDY HINT: If you like a pattern but it includes a detail, such as welt pockets, that you are unsure of – leave them out. That is the beauty of making your own garments!

In addition to the above criteria, if you are shorter than the ‘average’ of 5’5” then look for patterns that say FIT for PETITE. These are designed for people of 5’4” or under and have adjustment lines to alter them easily.

The pattern envelope
The front of the pattern envelope - will include photographs of one or more views included in the pattern pack together with colour illustrations of other garments also included. It also includes the size range included in the pack and pattern number.

The envelope back - is the source of all information! It can also serve as the shopping list for fabric and notions needed to make the pattern. Also included are:

1. Identification information – pattern number, number of pattern pieces, basic size category and style information such as Misses/Women’s.

HANDY HINT: Although your chosen view may not use every piece, the total number of pattern pieces is one way to evaluate the amount of time or sewing skill a pattern will require.

2. Back views – black and white line drawings that show fashion details such as zip location, pocket or button positioning, seams and darts. These are very useful guides to how difficult the pattern may be – by showing details not visible in the photographs.

3. Suggested fabric list – provides a guide to the sort of fabrics that are suitable and will give the best results for the garments included. If it does NOT list stripes or checks, avoid them as they will be difficult to match properly.

4. Notions – these are all the extras such as buttons, zips, seam bindings and shoulder pads needed to complete the garments.

5. Standard body measurements – Shown in the back of pattern catalogues, they are repeated on the envelope as a convenient reference guide for making pattern adjustments later on.

6. Yardage chart – tells you how much fabric to buy for the size and view you want to make. Note that the different yardage amounts are listed depending on the fabric width and whether the fabric is with or without nap.

If the fabric has a one-way design or a texture such as pile, then you need to follow the ‘with nap’ requirements and fabric layout. On the chart one * indicates yardage for ‘without nap’ two ** indicates yardage for ‘with nap’ fabrics and three *** means it doesn’t matter if fabric has a nap or not because the pattern layout will be the same either way.

Yardage for linings, interfacing, elastic or trimmings are included in this chart also.

HANDY HINT: If the pattern Yardage Chart doesn’t include quantities for the fabric width you have purchased, check quantity required on the FABRIC WIDTH CONVERSION chart, Simplicity website: www.simplicity.com.

 7. Finished garment measurements – these help judge the length and fullness of a design – how much ease is built in. The difference between this measurement and the Body Size Measurement is the amount of ‘ease’ or looseness there has been built in. Depending on the type of garment, the circumference of bust and/or hip measurement may be included also.
HANDY HINT: Measure some favourite clothes to see for yourself how much ‘ease’ has been included. Compare these measurements with the Finished Garment Measurement of patterns you wish to make.

8. All the above information in Spanish and French and using metric measurements.

Inside Pattern Envelope
Apart from the full size tissue pieces, there are instruction sheets which have everything you need to know to sew the designs in the pack. These include:

• What pattern pieces are needed for each view in the pack
• Cutting layouts for each view, showing how to fold fabric and lay on the individual pieces as well as a check list of pieces needed.
• A section on the front page provides GENERAL DIRECTIONS of standard pattern terminology including the symbols used and what they mean, how to lengthen or shorten pattern pieces, cutting tips and sewing guidelines.
• Sewing directions – step-by-step instructions through the garment construction.

HANDY HINT: As you become more experienced it may be faster to work on several sections simultaneously, sewing as far as possible on each section before pressing. This saves frequent trips to the ironing board.

Markings on Pattern Pieces
1. General information - each pattern piece includes the pattern number, sizes on that particular piece (some patterns will have 2 or 3 different pattern pieces for the same section so that there are not too many sizes included on one piece of tissue). What the piece is, ie: FRONT, and simple cutting directions such as CUT 2 FABRIC, CUT 1 INTERFACING.

2. Notches – triangular symbols extending from the cutting line into the seam allowance. These are used to match up seams, front to back etc. Mark notches by cutting these triangular shapes OUTWARDS from cutting line when cutting out fabric.

3. Solid lines within pattern piece – some where buttonholes are positioned, indicate the location of bust line, waistline and hipline and show where to fold fabric.

4. Centre line – this is a dot-dash line and indicates where the centre front is (if applicable).

5. Grainline arrow – very important, this is used to position the tissue on the correct fabric grain. A straight, double ended line means that the pattern piece must be placed parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. A squared off line with two arrow heads indicates the pattern piece is placed along a folded edge of fabric.

6. Cutting lines – solid lines on the outside of the pattern piece. For multi-size patterns there will be a number of lines, one for each size. Take care to follow the cutting line for the size you are making.

7. Finished garment measurements – are printed at bust line, waistline and hipline on the appropriate pattern piece.

8. Dots – are circles that mark points to be matched before stitching. They also mark placement of details such as darts, tabs and belt loops.

9. Hem – tells you how much fabric to turn up at hem.

10. Darts – are shown as V-shaped broken lines with dots. To sew match the dots, folding fabric with RIGHT sides together and stitch along the broken line from widest point to tip. Darts shape fabric to fit over body contours.

Lengthen or shorten lines – are two parallel lines that indicate where the pattern can be made longer or shorter without distorting the garment shape. If the pattern is adjustable for PETITE sizes, a broken line above the lengthen or shorten line indicates where and how much to shorten a pattern.

* To lengthen – cut the tissue along the line and separate by the required amount. Slip another piece of paper in the gap and tape together.
* To shorten – fold the tissue along the line and then fold up by the required amount. Tape in place. Remember to do both back and front pieces.

Tucks - are shown on the tissue pieces by broken lines with the word ‘tuck’ between. To sew, match the broken lines, folding the fabric with the RIGHT sides together.

Pleats - are similarly marked, but have broken lines and solid lines with the word ‘pleat’ between them and a directional arrow. To make pleats, fold the fabric on the solid line and bring fold to broken line then press. Baste across top of pleats to hold in place.

Seam Allowances
Today it is generally understood that for most fashion sewing seam allowances are 15 mm (5/8”). If a different seam allowance is used, it will be noted in the Sewing Directions of the instructions. For example a tight-fitting bodice might have 2.5 cm (1”) seam allowance so there is extra room to adjust the fit, whilst a neckline with a narrow binding might have 6 mm (1/4”) to match the seam allowances on purchased bindings.

Home dec and crafts projects use 13 mm (1/2”) and 6 mm (1/4”) seam allowances.

This article has been put together from information in the Simplicity Simply The Best Sewing book. This book is an ideal sewing companion no matter what level of sewing expertise you have. For full review, see Book Reviews. You can also purchase the book via the Simplicity website: www.simplicitynewlook.com.