How To

Fit and Style Solutions

Which shape are you? Most of us can be categorised into one of five shapes. See the descriptions below to decide which silhouette most aptly describes you. Then choose patterns that flatter your figure.

RECTANGLE SHAPED FIGURE

The rectangle shaped figure is easy to identify. If your figure is straight up and down, without a lot of curves you fall into this body type classification.

To transform a rectangle into an hourglass shape, start with a knit surplice top that wraps around the middle, creating a nipped-in waistline. Add a bias-cut skirt that fits smoothly at the hips and flares out at the hem to achieve a balanced but flirty feminine look.

TRIANGLE-SHAPED FIGURE

If your upper body is noticeably smaller than your lower body, you could best be described as having a triangle shaped figure, the most common female form. To show a triangle body type off to perfection, choose a fit-and-flare silhouette that skims over the hips. Add a brightly coloured shrug to draw the eye upwards, to emphasize the bust and bring focus to the face.

INVERTED TRIANGLE-SHAPED

An inverted triangle body shape can be defined as having shoulders wider than hips. Consider yourself an inverted triangle shape if you have a V-shaped rib cage with a small waistline.

To help create a less top-heavy look and smooth out the bodyline, select clean lines and a trim fit through the bust and shoulders. Be sure that jackets and tops button higher, to help de-emphasize a large bust. Balance the bottom with soft straight or slightly flared pants or skirts

APPLE-SHAPED FIGURE

The apple-shaped figure is unique to the full-figured form and can be an apt description if your upper body is noticeably larger than your lower body, especially around the tummy.

An empire-waist top or dress is the perfect camouflage for a trouble tummy. Be sure that it fits snugly through the rib cage, and then floats softly away from the body to the hips. Avoid heavy or stiff fabrics or an over-abundance of gathers, or it will have the opposite effect.

HOURGLASS-SHAPED FIGURE

The hourglass-shaped figure is considered the ideal female form and is best described as being curvy with a clearly defined waist.
To show off an hourglass shape to its best advantage start with a belted dress, top or jacket. Then add a trendy Obi-type belt to accentuate your nipped-in waistline. For pure perfection be careful that the fit above and below the belt is smooth, not bubbly or too puffy.

Shapely Body Tips

If you are one size on the top and another on the bottom, make the most of Simplicity’s multiple cutting lines to get the best fit. Choose the appropriate cutting lines for each of your measurements, and use a French curve to blend one size’s cutting line into the other as needed. Be sure to make the line a smooth one, or your seam will have an unsightly bump when sewn together.

Use brighter colours and flashy prints to accentuate the positive. If you want to use a print but prefer to camouflage, choose one that is muted in colour or smaller in scale; you’ll have the interest of a print, but it reads as a solid to the casual eye.

Dresses, jackets and tops with princess seams are a girl’s best friend. Not only do they give a long vertical line that slims and flatters, but princess seams also allow for the greatest freedom in making fit adjustments. Be sure to measure carefully when making pattern adjustments, and don’t forget to add appropriate seam allowances.

Look for patterns like these Simplicity designs: 3769, 3778, 3804, 3826, 3827, 3869, 3870, 3990, 4014, 4302, 4401 and 5207.

Use accessories to your advantage.

* An eye-catching necklace or fabulous pair of earrings draws attention to your face and away from trouble areas.
* Long beads or a soft lightweight scarf draped around your neck can visually elongate your body to create a vertical line.
* A great belt makes the most of a small waist.

Many thanks to Simplicity Limited for the above information. Simplicity and New Look patterns are available from pattern stockists nationally. For details of local stockists, tel: 0161 480 8734, www.simplicitynewlook.com