Designer Techniques

All in one facings  

By Janet Moville

Sleeveless dresses and tops are a useful addition to any wardrobe but the construction can be a little tricky; at times producing less than professional results. Here’s a completely machine-able version that’s sure to please!

1. Before cutting out your garment, trim 3 mm (1/8”) from the armhole and neckline edges of the facing pattern pieces. This prevents the facing from showing on the right side when completed!

2. Taking a 15 mm (5/8”) seam allowance, join the side seams of the bodice and facings. Press seams flat to embed the stitch, then open to ensure a pucker free finish. Press lightly from the right side, using a clapper to flatten the seam.

3. Place facing onto bodice, right sides together, matching seams and notches. Pin edges together to secure.

4. When sewing, leave the shoulder seam open and also a section either side of the opening of about 5 cm (2”) on the neckline and armhole edges.

5. Sew 15mm (5/8”) seams. Trim and grade seam allowances, clip curves to, but not through, the stitching.

6. Understitch the seams using a three step zigzag -stitch length 1.2 stitch width 5 - to no nearer than 2.5 cm (1”) of the open shoulders.

HANDY HINT: This is easier to do by keeping the garment inside out whilst sewing with the right side of the facing uppermost. Position the seam allowances so that they sit directly under the facing. Do not allow the stitching to fall over the edge or it will show on the right side! Try positioning hands either side of the area being sewn, holding the garment flat and gently pulling the seam apart to prevent tucks. Using this technique actually allows the stitches to ‘press’ the seam flat!

7. Turn the garment to the right side through the open shoulder. It’s important to do this at this stage as it will be impossible to turn through later!

8. Pin and sew the bodice shoulder seams. Press seams open.

HANDY HINT: The back of a wooden spoon an ideal pressing tool for this tight area!

9. Reach through the back opening and take hold of the facing shoulder seams bringing them back inside the garment. Sew the shoulder seams together. Press, using the handle of the wooden spoon to support the seam this time.

10. Continue to pull the shoulder seam through to the inside so that the open seams are visible.

11. Pin and sew this together, taking care not to catch the opposite side in the seam. Trim and grade the remaining seam allowances as before. Turn through to the right side. Now give a final press ready to insert the zip or sew up the back seam. All without a single hand stitch!

This technique works just as well in fully lined garments. 

Article prepared by Janet Moville of Modern Approach to Sewing
The Astra Business Centre
Roman Way
Ribbleton
Nr Preston, PR2 5AP
Tel: 01772 498862
Email: modernapproach@blueyonder.co.uk;
www.sewjanetmoville.co.uk

Illustrations by Liz Rugman

Black and white dress, New Look 6591. To view or buy New Look patterns, visit: www.simplicitynewlook.com.